Wed, 29 November 2006 I've talked about kickback, but what is it? Comments[0] |
Tue, 28 November 2006 Suggestions for using push sticks and push blocks for safer cutting... Comments[0] |
Mon, 27 November 2006 A few thoughts on safety in the workshop........don't forget to check out the Lloyd Williams Memorial link at the website. Comments[0] |
Fri, 24 November 2006 Have you wondered what those numbers on Stanley-Bailey hand planes mean? Do you start with the number one and work through the number eight? Today's tip is a little insight into what those numbers mean.... Comments[0] |
Wed, 22 November 2006 A quick Thanksgiving thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Comments[0] |
Wed, 22 November 2006 So many tools today have lasers, but do you really need one? How much of an advantage does it give you when making accurate cuts? Just a few thoughts on the accessory... Comments[0] |
Tue, 21 November 2006 A few thoughts on choosing a 10" or 12" Miter Saw.....Comments[0] |
Mon, 20 November 2006 A quick look at the subtle difference between the compound miter saw and the sliding compound miter saw....Comments[0] |
Fri, 17 November 2006 A quick look at winding sticks. A set of shop made winding sticks are easy to make and a great way to use some scraps in the shop for something that will make your projects a lot better....or at least flatter. Comments[0] |
Thu, 16 November 2006 Sure you can use a claw hammer to hit your chisels with, but are you sure that's the best choice for YOUR chisels?????? Comments[0] |
Wed, 15 November 2006 A quick look at the differences between a Japanese and Western Style handsaw..... Comments[0] |
Tue, 14 November 2006 Do you need a bandsaw if you already have a tablesaw or vice versa? A little babble about the idea... Comments[0] |
Mon, 13 November 2006 ![]() Another joinery lessen...the half lap. A great little joinery technique with a lot of strength. The half lap is made from two pieces that are cut so that the mating surfaces are half the thickness of the stock. Thus for example two pieces, both 3/4", are cut so that their mating edges are 3/8" each. When brought together, the total thickness is 3/4". The half lap is a very strong joint, with the strength coming from two components of the joint. The first component is the shoulder and the second is the mating face. The shoulder provides a great deal of rigidity that helps to reinforce the joint from any racking under stress, while the large surface area of the mating face provides ample gluing surface. Have you checked out the new audio format yet? Let me know what you think about it? Until the next show, Straight Grains and Sharp Blades, Matt Comments[0] |
Mon, 13 November 2006 Can you use a circular saw in a furniture building woodshop.....absolutely yes! The circular saw is great for resizing any type of large panels or solid stock that would otherwise be way to large....Comments[0] |
Fri, 10 November 2006 An often forgotten measuring/marking tool...the story stick or story pole will allow you to reproduce the same details and measurements without every having to break out your tape measure. As mentioned in the show, check out "Choosing and Using Hand Tools" by Andy Rae. Comments[0] |
Thu, 9 November 2006 A quick look at sandpaper. The old CAMI grading system is getting alot of competition from the FEPA grading system. Do you know the difference? If you were to use them on bare wood there wouldn't be too much of a difference, but for finer work...the difference is noticable. Comments[0] |
Wed, 8 November 2006 A few ideas on identifying and controlling stain blotching in blotch prone woods..... Comments[0] |
Tue, 7 November 2006 A secondary wood used for hidden components, such as drawer rails, stretchers, drawer sides and backs is a great way to cut the cost of using more expensive hardwoods and exotics. Comments[0] |
Mon, 6 November 2006 A question from the emails inspired this episode about workbenches. A few ideas about sizes and materials for workbenches. Comments[0] |
Sun, 5 November 2006 ![]() The Mortise and Tenon joint is perhaps one of the strongest joinery techniques available to the woodworker. The M&T consists of two very distinct parts, the mortise - a deep groove cut into the edge or face of a component and the tenon - a corresponding tongue cut to match the mortise for a snug fit. The M&T joint has a number of variations but the one I demonstrate here is a four shouldered basic M&T. Why four shoulders? The four shouldered version provides a great amount of strength against any kind of racking that may occur if and when stress is applied to the project. Not to mention that because the shoulders hide any miscuts I were to make while cutting the mortise a four shouldered M&T provides a cleaner look. The M&T joint gains it's strength from the increased glue surface of the tenon but also receives alot of strength from the shoulders too. When made correctly, the M&T joint can be simply pegged or pinned in place vs. glued, this is a traditional timber framing technique that's easily used in furniture building. The two methods that are easiest for making M&T joints are a combination of machines. Using a drill press, chucked with the appropriate size bit - preferably a forstner bit - can begin the process of making the mortise. It's important to have all you lines drawn out on the piece so you know where to cut. After drilling out much of the stock next you can use a sharp chisel to clean up and define the four walls of the mortise. The other method that works great for cutting a mortise is using a router with a straight cutting bit, even after using a router you'll still need to clean up the mortise with a sharp chisel for square ends. To cut the tenons you can use a table saw equipped with a dado blade set for the right height to cut the cheeks and define the shoulders. A regular table saw blade can be used also, it's just a matter of making multiple cuts and using a tenon cutting jig to safely cut the cheeks of the tenon. Two other methods for cutting tenons are the routertable and the bandsaw. The mortise and tenon joint is an absolute foundation in the joinery world.
Congratulations to this episode's winner, I finally drew a name for free schwag and the winner is being contacted as we speak. If you're interested in getting your name in for free schwag, drop me a line. Until the next episode, Straight Grains and Sharp Blades Matt Comments[0] |
Fri, 3 November 2006 Featherboards are the perfect extra set of hands to keep your cuts tight against the fence. Comments[0] |
Thu, 2 November 2006 For many of us, a benchtop tablesaw will be the first large power tool we'll buy when we start woodworking. Here's a few to think about.... Comments[1] |
Wed, 1 November 2006 A longtime listener, Skee, dropped me a line with a question about the differences between Shellac, Lacquer and Stain. If you have a question, you're welcome to send it to me via mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com Comments[0] |
Tue, 31 October 2006 A little look at the different types of drill bits.... Comments[0] |

A few thoughts on choosing a 10" or 12" Miter Saw.....


